Known as the ‘Land of High Passes’, the high altitude desert landscape of Ladakh has the Indus meander across the stark region. It has endless tracts of nothing but flat brown plateau, which yields to forbidding red, black and yellow mountains. This is peppered by emerald oases. The best time to visit is between April and July. So you should plan a trip right now.
WHITE SANDS OF NUBRA
The Nubra Valley lies between the Ladakh and Karakoram ranges, its borders touching Pakistan and China. It was on the Silk Route, but China put a stop to the caravans that passed along the Shyok and the Nubra rivers. Now, the double-humped Bactrian camels that roam the white sands near Hunder are the only reminder of the ancient trade route. Hunder, the last point up to which travellers are allowed to go, is a small village in a green valley, which is known for the white sand dunes that come a little before it (with a 4-wheel drive you could venture on to the dunes).
THE GOMPAS
Ladakh’s most imposing edifices are all monasteries. At Stakna, Shey or even Lamayuru (the oldest living gompa) you may be content to admire the massive hill-top complexes from a distance. But up-close the monasteries are full of ancient atmosphere and ritual as well as many artistic treasures. Do not miss the large Chon-Kor Maitreya at Thiksey. The main hall (du-khang) of the thriving Hemis Gompa is impressive but even the ruins of Basgo are arresting, and perhaps the greatest works of Ladakhi sacred art are the surviving murals on the crumbling 12th-century walls of Alchi.
FESTIVALS
One of the most colourful sights in the stark landscapes of Ladakh is the festival that happens here all year round. Every monastery has its own festival where masked dances alternate with ritual chanting — the most famous of these festivals is the one, which takes place at the Hemis gompa (late June/early July). For a complete list of monastery festivals check their tourism website. In addition to these festivals the Ladakh administration also organises the Ladakh Festival in September every year, in an attempt to boost the fag end of the Ladakh tourist season. The festival features dances from all over Ladakh, an archery competition and a polo competition that takes place on the Polo Ground in Leh. Losar, the Buddhist New Year, is a winter celebration.
