The name of the new establishment is a nod to the ingredient-driven and fresh produce philosophy of the cafe. Turtuk, located north of Leh, the region’s capital, is a village that comprises mainly the Balti community, believed to be a Tibetan ethnic group that settled across Ladakh and is famous for its sustainable and aesthetic stone housing and architecture. The cafe, designed by seven local artists of the region—a stone carver, blacksmith, carpenter, handloom, artist, wood carver, and mud-plaster artist— is made with natural elements such as stone, mud and 70-year-old recycled wood.
You can get comfortable in this indoor seating space that offers a mix of floor seating and regular table seating. The wooden flooring, cane lamps and earthy tones of the pillows and curtains give a homely and serene vibe to the place.
The Farmers’ House Cafe is the latest feather in the cap of Rashidullah Khan who owns and runs the Turtuk Holiday resort, known to be the best accommodation in the region. After working in Japan for a few years, Khan returned to Turtuk to launch The Balti Farm experience an attempt to serve traditional Balti cuisine with a ten-course chef’s tasting menu and a la carte options. Last May, they launched Yakitori, which was the first Japanese restaurant in Ladakh. “With the Farmers’ House Cafe, the idea is to offer a complete, global experience in a village that is extremely rich in culture. It is important for people to explore it,” Khan said.
Borrowing from its traditional central Asian trade links of Kashgar and Samarkand, and Khan’s culinary experiences in Japan, the cafe offers a cosy dining experience with elements of traditional Baltistani culture and global cuisine. The kitchen is helmed by Prem Bahadur and executive chef Tikam Chand, who has mastered the art of baking at these below-freezing temperatures. “The temperature can completely change how a particular bread tastes – especially during the fermentation process,” says Khan.
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Many of the ingredients are also sourced from the cafe’s own organic farm and orchards. Despite being in the northernmost part of the state, Turtuk is at one of the lowest altitudes in the region. The geographical landscape, therefore, allows for a range of fruits such as apricots, walnuts, queen apples and mulberries as well as vegetables such as pumpkins, potatoes, broccoli, and beetroots, to grow there. Still, running a cafe in one of the most remote regions of India comes with its own challenges. From the smallest ingredient like lemon grass needed for the Thai curry to the salmon and tuna, the nearest market is in Delhi, 1,100kms away. “But we try to serve the most authentic meal we can,” he says.
From all-day breakfast to a host of main course meals, coffees, teas and smoothies, there’s something for everyone at Farmers’ House Cafe. You can start your day with the in-house breakfast with a choice of bread from khambir, the local bread to paratha, a fruit platter, baked beans or sausage, and a choice of egg preparation. Pair this with any of the cold-pressed seasonal juices such as tomato, beetroot or carrot. Baddha the barista can help you get warm and cosy with the gur gur salt tea, mulberry and basil teapot, or freshly brewed coffee available over the stone and wood-topped counter.
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Also try the same-day plucked salad, fresh from the farm, with lettuce, tomatoes and cucumber, seasoned with the Himalayan herb tumburk and local cheese. For the mains, the salmon ura maki made with traditional Japanese flavours and salmon from Denmark is a must-have for all seafood lovers. The handmade pasta in walnut sauce and traditional spaghetti aglio olio is another favourite. The menu also offers gluten-free and organic options such as the buckwheat pizza topped with walnuts and farm-grown basil and seasonal greens. Pair this with specially crafted mocktails such as Khalman with farm-plucked apricot, apricot kernel seeds and Himalayan smoked herbs.
The Farmers’ House experience would be incomplete without the live music gigs, that you can enjoy while sipping on a coffee or enjoying a lazy morning brunch or dinner.
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Turtuk village, Ladakh. Meal for two: Rs2,000
